BMW E36 EWS II bypass

Hi, in this video I go over a simple method that can be used to swap out an original EWS II 413 Silver label DME with an earlier EWS I 413 Maroon label DME without dealer re-coding. I still don’t know everything about the EWS system but I am learning, the information below is what I have learned so far and I am passing it on to you.  Thanksews system

As our favorite BMW E36 gets older the chances of electrical components failing come with it. The EWS system is one of those components that will leave your car stranded if it fails and there aren’t many shops capable of dealing with it. The EWS is a cool feature but so are alarm systems. If I had to choose I would go with the alarm system as I can take it to just about anyone to have it fixed or replaced it if fails, I don’t like being at the mercy of dealerships.

For those of you that are not familiar with EWS I & II it’s an immobilizer like an alarm system that you would install on any car but without a remote control to fiddle with. This was not an option, it was standard equipment mandated by the European Insurance Company.  BMW made a change to their security level starting on 1/95. They went from EWS I to EWS II, the difference is EWS I which started with 93 model years did not use a chip in the key. It worked by high and low voltage signals from the (GM) control module & (BC) board computer. When you lock your car the (GM) or (BC) will send a high signal to the DME. If the DME sees a high signal it will not permit fuel or spark. The opposite happens when the car is unlocked, the (GM) & (BC) send a low signal to the DME. To up the ante, BMW installed a starter immobilization relay starting with the 7/94 model year, this relay is more aimed at preventing starter engagement while the engine is running but it will also not allow starter engagement if it does not see the correct inputs. This relay requires input from the transmission range switch (high signal start/low signal no start)  The DME looks to crank position sensor if it sees over 1200 RPM it will signal the starter immobilization relay to not engage the starter. The relay also looks for signals from the (GM) (BC) & ignition switch. So it’s possible that if you have a worn out or out of adjustment transmission range switch it could prevent the engine from starting. From what I have decipher, the starter immobilization relay will stop starter engagement and also send a high signal to the DME to prevent fuel & spark if the automatic trans switch is not in the position it should be. If you find your car won’t start it wouldn’t hurt to cycle the transmission shifter back and forth a few times to see if it cures the problem, maybe even try neutral for that matter. Starter inhibitor switches have been around for quiet sometime but less complicated then BMW’s version.starter-immobilizaton-relay

Starting on 1/95 and possibly some late 94 models BMW went to EWS II. Everything is pretty much the same except BMW again upped the ante. Cars now come with an ISN coded chip in the key, antenna ring around the ignition lock which plugs into a transmitter receiver module ( the receiver is mounted above the steering column). It also includes an EWS control module with a  starter relay built into it (located behind the glove box) plus an ISN code in the DME chip. The (BC) code input to the DME is eliminated. Instead of the DME looking for a high and low signal it is now sending and receiving a specific (ISN) individual serial number code to and from the EWS control module. Also the EWS control module is looking at the key to see if its code matches as well. A further update was made beginning May? of 1997 E32 & E36 vehicles with manual transmissions which were updated to include a clutch pedal position switch. The clutch switch signal is a hall effect sensor that provides a high signal when the clutch is depressed (this signal is sent to the EWS module).

In a nut shell the antenna ring energizes the key and then the key is able to send its stored code to the EWS module. I would think, it would be best to be careful with the key, keep it away from high powered magnets and wireless chargers like the Sonic Care toothbrush charging bases.

There is a way to get around the EWS II immobilizer in the event your computer (DME) ever becomes damaged. If your 1995 BMW 3 series with EWS II 413 silver label DME fails, you cannot simply run to the wrecking yard and buy a replacement one. Whether you pick up a new computer or a used one, it will have to be realigned with the EWS module first by means of a piggyback computer like the BMW GT1; the cost is in the neighborhood of $2000 and up for one of these bad boy’s, although there are some knockoffs for half this price. This is usually done by a knowledgeable locksmith or a BMW shop/dealer. Otherwise, your engine won’t start because the replacement DME computer chip will not store the same codes that your original chip did. Your only other option in this situation is to try transferring your original ews coded chip into the replacement silver label DME in hopes it was just the mother board or injector drivers that failed and not the chip itself. Note, that owners of 96 and up model years will have to upload an EWS delete program into the DME; Shark injector software might be an option. 96 and up BMWs do have EWS II but the DME chip is not the same; although on 96 & up models you can bypass the starter relay that is built into the EWS module in the event it ever fails.

The following procedure outlined in this EWS video will bypass the dealership and save you some money in the process if you ever find yourself in the need of a replacement DME. Keep in mind that you will still need your original key to start the car with this bypass due to the EWS module’s starter inhibitor function. Once you perform the bypass, you will have a few options as to what DME configuration you can use.

1) Install a 413 Maroon label DME as a complete unit from a 92-94 E34 525i / E36 325i,is

2) Install a 413 Maroon label DME chip from a 92-94 E34 525i / E36 325i,is 413 into your 1995 E36 325i,is Silver label 413 DME.

Leave a comment ?

68 Comments.

  1. I saw your video on bypassing the ewsII and I’m looking forward to it. Here’s what I have and I need your advice. 1997 328i with a bad ignition lock cylinder. I just replaced the ignition switch. Tailpiece is bad on the ignition lock, causing the steering wheel to lock, so I cut open the bottom of the lock cylinder freeing the wafer that was lodged. Steering wheel is unlocked. Yay. I have to push the button to move shifter. I’m okay with that. Car drives beautifully. Going deeper, previous owner had cut and spliced wires to ignition switch and immobilizer transponder at key. In my infinite wisdom I decided to clean up the splices, I disconnected the wires and now I have a no start situation. Would you recommend bypassing the ewsII altogether by cutting the wire (and throw in a performance chip while I’m there) and if so, which performance chip would you recommend for enhanced fuel economy.
    Thanks for your video. Now I have hope.
    Tom
    3015357997

    • Car Killer, sorry for the late response, (by the way that’s one hell of a username…..I like it, Car Killer)

      Updated answer:…..I would go over all the connectors that were taped and spliced together. If there is no trace of an aftermarket alarm system causing the no start then it could be EWS related. I am assuming that when you are referring to the wires that are hanging from the immobilizer transponder key you are talking about the black plastic antenna ring. The antenna ring sits in front of the ignition lock opening which has two small wires coming off of it, these two wires carry the key fob’s code to the EWS transmitter receiver which then sends it over to the EWS module. You can buy a replacement antenna ring and see if that fixes your no start, the antenna ring wires connect directly into the EWS transmitter receiver which sits above the steering column. The ring is a plug & play install and does not cost much. The wiring from that area of the ignition lock is the only thing I can see that would mess with the EWS function. Just keep in mind that the key has to be next to the antenna ring for each start up as the antenna ring powers up the chip in the key to get its codes. To perform an EWS bypass on your car you would need to re-flash your computer to remove the EWS function. Your car is OBD-II (96-up) verses the 1995 OBD-I car in the video which has a removable chip. You can try contacting http://WWW.bimmerworld.com about a re-flash. Thanks, M.B.S.

  2. hy bro so if i bypass on my e36 1996 323i thats i can run any aftermarket ecu that has no EWS Coding on it

    • Ash, your 96 323i is OBD II equipped and runs a different computer. You may want to look into a performance software that can re-flash your ecu, the Shark Injector is a good product, you can get a good view of it at Turner Motor sports. As for the EWS your car is equipped with EWS II so that is about the only thing in common with the EWS bypass video. As for the bypass the wiring is the same except the pin outs on your ecu are going to be different (pin 66 doesn’t apply to the 323i) wiring schematics show pin 66 would be pin 18 on your car but I would do a continuity test just to make sure. So the video was mainly made for the purpose of being able to run different computer chips without having to take the car in for dealer re-coding, on your car it’s just a matter of flashing the ecu without taking the chip out. Thanks, MyBimmerSpace

  3. thks bro bec i did know thats i was going do that i saw in ur vedio. So all i need to reflash the ecu pretty much. I was just gonna i dont know if u familiar about this the maf sensor in e36 crapped out so i was wondering to replace that with map sensor bec thy pretty much the same u recken its a best idea. Cheers bro

    • You should just need to replace the maf sensor. I don’t know if you already know this test, but I check a bad maf sensor by unplugging it and then starting the engine… if the engine runs smoother without the maf plugged in then the maf is bad. A bad maf sensor will usually not allow the engine to idle on it’s own.

  4. hy bro i had a look on this shark injector software its mean bro thks for the headup.

  5. so can u able make same vedio for bypass on a 323i bro just for a guide.

  6. or even if u can guide me to find the pin 18 would be help ful cheers

  7. Hey man, just got one question,
    my car is a 95 m3, if I do the ews bypass,
    will it work when I swap in a s50b32?
    thanks

    • I would assume that you are going to run the Siemens DME it comes with. I don’t have any schematics for the Euro cars but the ews works the same, Although from what I know that Euro car has different pin outs on the ews so you would need to find out which wire leads from the DME to the EWS and then go about cutting it and see if it cures your problem. I will get back to you if I find any solid procedures… Thanks, MyBimmerSpace

  8. Chatal Vlasveld

    hello, I have a e36 318is of 92 and have recently started an engine from a e36 318is Z3 of 1997 to build in, I have everything connected and wanted to start but will not start. the engine will be around but have no ignition and no fuel supply. it may be that it has to do with the ews2? because the computer 97 with ews 2 is programt and the old not have this. you might now a solution to bypass this or must i just change the programt chip in the computer?

    kindes regards Chantal

    • Mr. Chantal, From what I understand from your question it does sound like an EWS problem… If you are not running the EWS module from your donor car then the Z3 computer will be looking for a signal from an EWS control module which isn’t there. The 97 BMW’s have OBD II computers which is different from the one in the video so you will not be able to do that bypass. The computer from the Z3 would require a re-flash to remove the EWS function. There might be a company that may be able to help you, have you tried contacting http://www.bimmerworld.com? I have read that you can send your computer to them to have the EWS removed from it or you can buy a product from them called” Shark Injector” it plugs it into the diagnostic port and uploads a new program.

      Other possibilities for no spark & fuel could be caused by a failing Main relay which is also called the DME relay or possibly the crank position sensor which is mounted on the front of the engine right above the harmonic damper has failed. You can test the crank position sensor by unplugging it and probing the sensor side of the plug with a digital volt/ohms meter, you should see around 560 ohms

      Normally for a swap like this you would need the original Z3 key, Z3 EWS module, & Z3 computer from your donor car as well the EWS transmitter & antenna ring. I hope this heads you in the right direction..Thanks,mybimmerspace

  9. hi mate i hope u can help me as my girlfreind has lost the the key and immobiliser fob for our l reg 1993 e36 16i as you will already no i cant get a new fob i can get a new key but that wont sort the immobiliser i have watched your video but it states you still need your tran sponder to start it please help as ive been quoted big money

    • thanx ever so much for your help am waiting for my new key to arrive from bmw and then we try it hopefully i get my car back but will let you no cheers

  10. hopefully you can do a video for me as your video is of good quality thanx mate i always wanted a bmw and had it two weeks now this arghhhhhhhh

  11. i have a bmw e36 323i 97 and it all started with a spinning barrel that after makeing a total mess of it mannaged to sort it and bodge it all back together so it worked i used a ignition barrel key and caseing of a mreg 318 and taptaed my key in to the steering lock cover ring antenna while useing the 318 key and barrel to start the car now the other day got in the car and the key that was tapted in to the antenna ring had come unstuck and i broke both the wires off the antenna ring so the car is dead is there any way to bypass the immobiliser all together

  12. hi. i have a 2/1995 325i and i have the EWS bypassed both at the green wire and the wires behind the gloveboz. i have an extended cranking issue in which the shop cannot figure out. the car cranks and cranks and finally starts up and runs fine once it starts

    are you saying even after the ews delete, the antenna ring can cause a no start condition??

    if this is so, can you please upload the video of the starter interrupter bypass?

    • Hi Griffin,
      Sorry for the late reply. If you are having extended cranking after the bypass, then try a 92/94 413 Maroon Label DME or just swap the chip from the Maroon DME to the Silver DME this should solve your extended cranking. Thanks M.B.S

  13. Dear jamsalman,

    Hi!

    I own a 1997 BMW 318i. I am having trouble getting my car to start. Sometimes it does and sometimes not. I took it to the shop and they told me that the EWS II module was damaged and I should change it. I found a used EWS II module from other vehicle in e-bay. If I buy that one can you use it to program it with my key?

    If not, by making the bypass only should my car start?

    Looking forward for your response.

    Gabriel

    • Gabriel, From what I have read the EWS modules are ordered VIN specific but not the DME. I do know for sure that if you order an EWS module form BMW your shop will be able to sync it with a scanner that’s capable of re-aligning the EWS Module to Computer. Thanks M.B.S.

  14. Hi! My 1994 325i was misfired on the #5 cylinder, I replaced new spark plugs, new coil, checked the wires and reset the code, still no spark on the #5 cylinder please help.

    thank you!

    • Tech, Using a voltmeter check the ignition coil harness connector (there are 3 terminals Batt+—signal return—coil signal) you should see battery+ on one of the terminals with key turned to position 2. and a negative earth pulse signal on one of the other terminals while cranking the engine. If not then it could be DME or wiring. Just one more thing I want to mention, I read once that the multi disc CD player harness in the trunk caused someones ignition coil harness to melt, I don’t know if that is what’s happening with your car but maybe its worth checking out. Hope this helps. M.B.S.

  15. Hey I’ve got a problem with my car it’s a BMW 318i 1996 e36. I spoke to my mechanic about my car not being able to start at all times and he reckons its hot something to do with either the key or imobiliser. He said its out of his hands and that I would need to go to BMW and get it fixed. But BMW charge $250 an hr for there service regardless of weather they fix it or not I can’t afford to be going through that route. Sometimes my car will start and sometimes it won’t usually when the weather is nice and cold I have a good chance on getting it started but hot days not a chance . What’s the best solution or what choices do I have. Please help me out so that I don’t need to spend too much Thank

    • Junior, by not starting I assume you mean the starter engages but the engine won’t start. Check that you have 11.5 to 12 volts or more at the battery as a first check. Low battery output can cause bizarre starting problems, if the battery is weak it may still crank the engine but the starter will draw all the power not leaving enough for the coils to fire. If the starter is not engaging then it could be an EWS module internal starter relay fault or a fault in the ignition switch. Another problem could be the ECT sensor, if it’s out of range it can cause hard starting after the engine is warmed up. Without a scanner you will have to troubleshoot the old fashion way. You can check the ignition coil harness connector with a voltmeter, there are 3 terminals but you will only need to check two of them. On one terminal there should be battery+ voltage with key on position 2 and a negative earth pulse on another terminal with engine cranking. The manual method would be to pull one of the ignition coils and see if it produces a spark while the starter is cranking. If that fails the test then it could be insufficient Battery power, faulty crank position sensor, or an EWS fault. The crank sensor should read 560 ohms when probed with a meter (disconnect sensor plug for testing). If you do have spark then you can rule out the EWS as the problem. From there I would check the fuel pump to see if its at least powering on. If the pump is not working then it could be a intermittent problem with the fuel pump which doesn’t work sometimes or DME is not sending a ground signal to the fuel pump relay. You can check fuel pump voltage at the fuel pump harness connector while the engine is cranking. I hope one of these checks finds your problem. Thanks M.B.S

  16. Hi, i have a BMW 2003 320!. Last month a had a problem with the starter we replace it and de relay.. but now we have no signal at the injector so he don t start… We think the probe in the ECU is dead?? Can we apply your trick on my car?? Bye a use ECU and plug it on the car and cut the green cable?? is it still pin 66 on my car?? Thanks for your help

    • Hi Kathy,
      Great question but unfortunately the EWS bypass I did does not apply to your model year therefore none of it will work on your car. It looks like you changed the EWS immobilizer starter relay so that could not be the problem. You can try disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 mins, sometimes it will clear corrupted software in modules. If you are not receiving an injector signal it could mean a few things. You have a faulty crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor, main computer relay is not switching, your KEY has a problem with the chip inside (you can try a SPARE key to see if that will start your car) EWS module has failed or codes do not match. If you can I would hook-up an OBD-II scanner to your diagnostic port and see if the DME will show any sensor fault codes. The only advice I can give you is to start with the above componets and see if you can find a fault with one of them. I’m not ruling your EWS out but there are other sensors that can cause this. As a note: remember to always remove your key from the ignition & disconnect the negative battery terminal before removing any EWS componet or for that matter immobilizer starter relay. Thanks M.B.S

  17. Hello, I have a 94 325is that cranks fine but no spark or fuel pump. Can I bypass the immobiliser? The car has a silver tag 413 in it. I tried a crank sensor thinking it may been it but no luck. I have stock key fob and key and key fob won’t lock or unlock doors either could this be part of problem? Thanks Brandon

    • Hello Brandon, welcome
      The door lock could be a problem if the switch in the door lock remains in the locked position. To my knowledge when the door is locked manually with the key it activates the EWS system which disables spark & fuel to the engine. So you might be onto something if you are having problems with the key manually locking the door. Have you tried unlocking the doors by unlocking the trunk lock with your key? you should be able to lock & unlock the front doors automatically from the trunk lock. If there is a problem with your door lock switch which is positioned inside the door in conjunction with the lock it could cause a no start.

      The switch in the door works by sending a voltage signal to the “GM” (general module) which is located behind glove box.. its a black skinny box with 3 fairly large removable electrical plugs. The GM module receives a high signal when the door is locked and a low signal when it’s unlocked. As an example lets pretend we are dealing with door locked high signal…. from there the GM will send a high signal to the EWS module. If when performing the bypass I would recommend using a 92-94 BMW Maroon Label 413 computer or simply replace your chip with an after market 92-94 chip or stock chip from a Maroon 413 DME from a 92-94 325i or 525I. The other route is to buy an EWS delete chip from Tuner Motorsports or Bimmerworld..other companies might sell them too. I hope you will be able to troubleshoot your no start with this information. Thanks M.B.S.

  18. hi there i have just put a e36 m44 engine (1996) in my e30 can i just swop the key amd barrel and ews in to my e30

    • Simon, yes if you run the original Computer, EWS module, ignition barrel with antenna ring and key Fob from your 1996 donor car then it will all work together and allow the engine to start. As long as the donor car did not have any EWS issues you should be in good shape. If you can’t get it to start at first then try cycling the key in and out of the ignition lock a few times, by doing this the chip inside the key will get powered up by the antenna ring. I have never had to do this but if my car did not start I would diffidently give it a try. Good luck with your E30 project… it sounds like a very good combination. M.B.S.

  19. hey
    I dont understand must i have a othe chip? Or is posible with the original chip?
    Sorry my english is not so good ;-(

    Please contact me

    • Yes, to do this bypass correctly you should use a non EWS 1992-1994 325i or 525I chip to be on the safe side. I say this because some people have reported that the bypass only worked with a non EWS chip installed and some people said it worked with the original EWS chip in place. It seems to be a hit and miss with each car, I have wanted to do more of my own testing to confirm this for myself. You could try leaving your original silver label DME in place to see if it will start. If it does not start then you can either remove the chip from your Silver label DME and replace it with a non EWS chip from a 413 Maroon label DME or just simply install a replacement 413 Maroon label DME as a unit. As for locating a chip, Ebay sellers have replacement mild performance chips in the $30.00 range that will work well and some also sell used DME’s as complete units.

  20. Hello M.B.S! Please help me! I have a 1996 750i and I cannot get it to run. I brought the car 4 months ago being told the only problem was it needed a starter. after i replaced the starter the car powered up but still did not start. I put in a new battery. still no turn over.So then i did a ews bypass …JOY IT TURNS OVER!!! but still not running. Now unfortunately$$$ i spent more money and sent my car to a mechanic who told me it was electrical and that i would have to go to a BMW SHOP. I gave him 300usd! so i know i cannot afford the bmw shop to charge me for electrical work.

    The mechanic found that there was no fuel or spark but the fuel pump does work. He sent power to the pump and the fuel pump squirted fuel in the engine compartment. we attempted to start the car with starter fluid in the air box and yet still did not even fire the car.

    I checked all of the fuses and non are broken. In the trunk are the only relays 4 that i see. and i don’t know if there are more relays in my car or how to check if a relay is working properly.

    also FYI my stereo doesnt come on and the obd2 port doesnt work, put a out a reading. ther mechanic could not get his reader to work and i went out and brought a new code reader not a fancy as the mechanic but my reader did not work either.

    I posted somevideos on youtube for more detailed help if you can help me to get my car moving.

    A fan of your Site
    Lee_Delta13

    Youtube:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZzGSPDEV6h8

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0h1RQUvwbc

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_zpNy32ey8

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nbff6f5JwHU

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=605chpJFQlA

    • Lee_Delta13,
      I did watch your videos but did not see anything obvious. As for the voltmeter, you want to set it to V— which is DC volts (direct current) not the wavy symbol, that’s for alternating current. I also noticed you did not have one of the leads plugged into the proper jack on the voltmeter, that is why you had a minus sign before the numbers (11 volts is good for now). There should be a COM jack on that meter; you want the black lead plugged into that one. The wire with tape on your steering column looks to be the starter wire (most likely someone else before you also tried to figure out the no start problem)

      First make sure to check all fuses, there are some hidden in the glove box secured by two thumb screws. I am just going off of some notes that I have here but it looks like fuse# 12 & 37 are for the immobilizer & fuse# 14 & 15 are for the engine control or otherwise known as the DME control relays. There are also fuses in the trunk that house the radio fuse, should be fuse #69 and fuse #45 for the unloader relay which also works with the radio. Fuses are numbered 49-77 facing front to back of trunk.

      If you bypassed the EWS system you will only be able to bypass the starter function due to your model year (96 & up) I am not sure which bypass you did. If you cut and bridged the two large wires coming off of the EWS module then that is Ok, that should have allowed you to crank the engine. If you also cut one of the small wires like I showed in my EWS video then you will have to put that wire back together because it will disable your DME (it won’t work on your OBD II platform) If this is what you did then reattach the small diameter wire and try starting your car again. Also won’t hurt to close all doors and then lock and unlock the door mechanically with the key.

      If your engine still will not start you could have an EWS problem. You can do an Ohms check on the antenna ring to see if it has an open circuit; the ring has two green wires that run into a black box on your steering column. Unplug it from the box, set your meter to Ohms and then take a reading, you should see something in the 2 Ohm range but not 0 Ohms.

      What bothers me the most is why the DME’s are not communicating with the diagnostic port? Possibly the DME’s are not receiving power / DME’s are damaged, or there is break in the diagnostic port connection. I don’t have a manual on your car just a few diagrams of fuses so I cannot go into great details but I can point you in a few directions.

      There should be two engine control module relays in Auxiliary relay box 2, they power up both DME’s, I think the box is located in your engine compartment (there might even be more fuses there). Put your finger on one of the relays to see if you can feel it click when the key is turned to position 2 (just before starter engagement), both should click; this click only happens one time once the ignition is turned on and off, so you will need a partner to turn the key for you. Just note, that this is a very low tech way to check the system but it’s a fast and easy check. The proper way to check would be to remove the computers from their connectors and then check the connector power pin for battery voltage while the key is in number 2 position. If you see power then your engine control module relays are working, if no power then either the relays are faulty or they are not receiving power.

      These are just a few basic checks that can be carried out. Hopefully, one of them will point to a fault. Keep in mind to remove the voltmeter’s lead from the device you are checking before switching it to a new setting, this is to prevent possible damage to the device or voltmeter its self.

      Thank you M.B.S.

  21. BMW E36 1996 2.0i

    ews bypass no start

    hi i need help. my ignition jammed so i have removed it. now i have installed a switch and start button and no start.

    i have bypassed ews by following instructions on video but still no start. but when i bought the car there was a chip in the key but no battery?? but it was working everytime…

    please can you give some advise pleass

    • Hi, The 1996 model is going to be a little more difficult to bypass. You will also need to have the ews removed from the ECU which requires software upload or re-flash. To my understanding the only thing wrong was the ignition jammed; if that was the case then reconnect the green wire on the ews module, if you did the starter bypass then that is ok you can leave it bypassed. After you reconnect the green wire to the ews take your original key and hold it next to the black plastic antenna ring while you start the car with your push button starter. You can either tape the key or chip next to the antenna ring or just have it handy each time you start the car. If your car will not restart after shutdown you may have to move the key so it’s out of range with the antenna ring and then bring it back into range. As for the battery in the key, that is not for the chip, the chip is powered up by the antenna ring each time you bring them both in contact. If you want to delete the ews all together I would give Tunner Motorsports a call. Thanks M.B.S.

  22. Hassan Elbardissy

    Dear Respected,

    Need your help urgently; my car is E30 and i swapped an M44 with the EWSII and i wired everything and i let the starter as the E30 curcuit and workrd well for two months after visiting someone relearned the modules and key chip…
    Now i have a problem and need to eleminate the EWSII and its curcuit to DME… realy need my DME to work like the old M40 one.

    Please your feed bacK as soon as you can,

    Regards,
    Hassan Elbardisy

    • Hello, it can be done if you have the ews removed from the M44 DME by means of reprogramming. Once that is done you would have to bypass the starter wires on the ews module if you don’t want to use the chipped key anymore. The starter wires are the two largest wires on the ews module plug 10ga or 12ga size; you would have to disconnect the battery and then cut both of them. From there you would only bridge the wires that are not connected to the module anymore, the other two wires that are now sticking out of the module should be capped off separately so they cannot touch each other. It’s best to run the bypass through a relay for safety reasons. I would personally try bypassing the starter first to see if it will start, if it doesn’t then you could move onto having the ews removed from the DME. Thanks M.B.S.

  23. Ok I am new here and just purchased a 2000 bmw 323i I have been driving it the past 3 days and has started and drove fine every time and last night I was coming inside and my key hit the ground and I came out this morning to drive it and it won’t start off the key now. Everything will turn on but starter will not turn over. I have two keys but one of them never worked in the first place. But the one that was working still works with buttons to unlock and everything but will not start. Please please help I can’t figure it out?

    • Ridge, simple test to see if it’s the EWS or just a bad starter: connect a test light from the starter solenoid power wire and then ground out the other side of the test light to chassis ground. Next have someone turn the key to start position, your test light should light up. If you test light does not light up then either your EWS module has a faulty starter relay or the chip in the key is not sending a code anymore. If the test light does light up then you have a faulty starter.

  24. Hey I have a 1996 328is, The obd2 scanner that my mechanic uses says link error, he troubleshooted and the fuel pump and relays are working. He says its a DME problem, I want to get a new dme but I don’t want to do the realignment since BMW dealers are giving me really long stories which means $$$. I want to do the EWS delete instead. After I reflash the DME, is the rest the same as your video? Is the wire that I have to cut on the ews module going to be the same? I don’t want to cut the wrong wire on the module.

    • Saif, after you have the DME re-flashed to delete the EWS you may have to bypass the starter wires that go to the ews module, although if your starter is working and cranking the engine over with the key then you don’t have to perform the bypass. I am assuming the DME was seeing power and ground when the link error ac-cured, usually it means the DME is bad. I would contact Turner Motorsports.com for a solution to delete the EWS on a donor DME, my video only works for 95 and older cars with removable chips…..OBD-I (stands for on board diagnostics 1) You are right about re-flashing as your car has OBD-II, no removable chip. Thanks, MBS

  25. I have a no start condition on my 1994 BMW 525i, Manf.Date 11/93. Vehicle was tested and found Fuel Pressure 47 PSI, Pulse on All Injectors, Sprark on all Spark Plugs, New spark Plugs, Starter cranks but engine does not fire, I have read your article do you think that the above conditions as I have describe them will work on my vehicle. Please respond.
    Thank you in advance
    Evan

    • One more additions that I forgot to add that is the Crank Shaft Sensor was also replaced.
      Thank you
      Evan

    • Evan, What troubles me is that you have fuel pressure, injector pulse and spark with a no start issue. It looks like your crank & cam sensor is working, as well the DME. It could be as simple as a faulty Blue top ECT sensor messing up the air fuel mix, bad Maf sensor or inoperative idle control valve. Have you tried starting the engine while holding the gas pedal down a few inches to bypass the idle control valve? Usually with a bad mass air flow sensor the engine will start and idle if unplugged. You can also do an Ohms check on the ECT sensor that is located under the intake manifold on the cylinder head. If you are in an area with freezing temps then it could be fuel related. The worse case would be zero cylinder compression, therefore a compression test should be performed as well. I hope one of these answers help you, thanks

  26. Thank you I will definitely try your suggestions. and keep you and keep you inform.

  27. I have a 95 316i E36. Starter solinoid was replaced. Engine turns over fine but will not start, no ground on the fuel pump relay and no spark. there is 12 volts from the solinoid terminal (black and green wire) any suggestions.

    • Paul, I am going off of U.S. specs here although everything should be fairly the same. If you have a faulty EWS II system then that could cause these symptoms as it will stop the DME from sending a ground signal or pulse for fuel & spark, although here are a few test you can do to rule out the EWS. Do a visual check of the DME for water damage or oxidation on the connector terminals. A check of the Crank Position sensor by unplugging it and taking an Ohms reading on the sensor side of the plug between terminals 1 & 2. Terminals 1 & 2 are the first two terminals from left to right when viewing the plug with the single plastic guide on top and the other two on the bottom. Your looking for around 560 ohms.
      You could also check for Battery + volts on your coil pack to see if the DME relay is powering it up…… assuming you do have a single coil block/pack. Using a Led Test light or voltmeter (preferably digital) set to 12 volt DC You can disconnect the round 7 pin connector on the coil and then switch the ignition switch to run position just before starter engagement. Next, place the red test lead of the voltmeter into pin 2 of the harness connector, and the black lead to chassis ground or negative battery post. You should see around 11 to 12 volts on a good battery. If you do not see battery voltage at pin 2 with key on then either the ignition switch is not sending power or your main DME relay is bad or not receiving a ground signal from the DME to turn it on ( I would check battery connections and especially ground to chassis wires) Pins 1,6,7,5 on the coil harness plug are showing as the ground trigger leads from the DME and pin 3 is the joint ground of secondary coils to DME. You could check for a ground pulse while someone cranks the engine by testing one of the trigger pins like pin 1. It would only be safe to test with a digital voltmeter or led test light ( no analog meters). Just keep in mind the engine has to be cranking to see a signal on the ground side of the fuel pump relay terminal. I hope one of these solutions will help you discover the problem. Thanks, M.B.S.

  28. Anthony Vital

    I have a 1995 BMW M3 6/95 build date silverllabel ecu 413. I’m trying to use a chip out of a red or maroon label 413. Do I follow this and it will work with 100% certainty?

    • Anthony, I haven’t personally tried this on a 95 M3. I did read that people were successful installing a maroon label 413 chip into there silver label DME and or using the complete maroon label 413 DME in place of the silver label M3 DME. The stock maroon chip is tuned for the 2.5L engine but I also read they did not feel much difference with it installed. Yes, you will want to follow the ews bypass. This bypass is used for people that have a proper working key, If your keys’ chip is faulty and won’t engage the starter then you will also have to bypass the starter wires on the EWS control module. Otherwise if you have starter engagement then just the basic ews bypass is necessary. There is also the option of using a non EWS DME from an earlier production date M3 up to 01/94 I believe, although they may be hard to find. Here is the part number for that….. 94 S50 M3 DME# 0-261-203-506 Blue label. I hope it works out for you Anthony, thanks

  29. Hi,
    I’ve got a 1997 318i e36 with a faulty DME. Can I replace the faulty DME with a Maroon labeled 413 DME (like the one in the video) on this car? I need to do this because my mechanic says I need to order a new DME from Germany and also pay him to reprogram/align it once it arrives 2 weeks later in the mail. HELP!!!!!!!!!

  30. Hi , I have 95 model 318i need to swap engen with 95model 323i ,what must I take frm 323i body in order to start my 323i engen on my 318i body, in short wht must I change frm 318 body to get engen started?

    • Shadrack, I have never performed a swap like this on a 318i but pretty much know what is involed. You will need the complete engine harness including the part where the engine harness plugs into the engine chassis harness. You will need the 323i instrument cluster gauge, radiator and hoses, ews module, Key Fob, DME computer and possibly the ews receiver transmitter that sits on top of the steering column. The antenna ring should be universal between both modles but would not hurt to have it. Will also need the transmission computer if it’s an Automatic. You will also need the exhaust system and engine mounts. That would be a good start, but you may run into unforeseen nick-nats here and there. The main thing is cooling hoses, fuel to the engine, and DME/computer hook up to the engine harness. If you were going to bypass the whole EWS system as long as it’s truley a 1995 OBD-1 model year your swapping from; you could use an older Maroon label 1993-1994 413 DME or chip. Then re-route and bridge the starter wires at the EWS control module plug. Typically you cut the 2 large yellow with black stripe & green with black stripe wires coming out of the EWS module plug and then cap off the 2 wires separately going to the plug so they do not short out when you engage the starter. Next, you would bridge the other 2 wires togehter that run up into the dash. Now the starter wire from the ignition switch has a clear path to the starter without being interrrupted by the EWS contorl module relay. Speaking of relays, I would recommend running a universal 30 amp relay inline with those starter wires to protect the ignition switch from overheating. I really hope everthing goes smoothly for you, Thanks M.B.S

  31. hello,
    i have a 1998 bmw 318i that i cannot start. i guess i’ll start by telling you what ive done; ive taken my starter, alternator and battery to be checked and all 3 seem to pass easily. i’ve also switched my air conditioner relay since its the same box with the starter relay but nothing. I could push start the vehicle (manual transmission)and it will run perfectly with no engine light, ill drive it around town with no problems, but will get no response while turning the key. everything comes on( the lights, radio, headlights). no crank or turn over. not sure where else to turn.

    • Samuel, it sounds like you either have a fualty clutch pedal switch or a bad case of igntion switch blues. I know your EWS system is ok because you are able to start the engine by Bump starting it. I would take a very close look into those two parts. Good Luck, thanks M.B.S

  32. I have a 98 M3 sedan and that plug on my car is blue and there is no wire going to the 4th pin. There is however a wire that looks like it should go to it but has been de-pinned and hooked to a white with red stripe wire in at another connector. Is this another way of bypassing the EWS or am I unable to bypass it in an s52 M3

    • Jesse, I am not sure about the white and red wire on your connector, it could be factory. I haven’t seen any new information that would lead me to believe that any of the 1996 and newer BMW’s are able to be bypassed by cutting or moving wires around. The only way to bypass the EWS on your 98 M3 would be to have a chip tuner upload a program though the diagnostic plug. Even though you have EWS-II it is the DME computer that is much different on your car than the one in my video. All 96 and up BMW’s need to be reprogramed to remove the EWS function. You can Google a BMW chip tuner in your area or give Tunermotorsports.com a call to see if they can help you or direct you to someone. I hope this helps you out.

  33. I have a 1997 BMW 318i and it will crank over but I have no power to ignition coil and no power to the fuel pump can you give me some ideas I would like to disable the immobilized anti theft system can I get a chip from the place in your video for this model or how can I route around this system.

    • Don, before suspecting the EWS system first check the DME relay which powers up the computer, if its fualty the engine will crank but not start. Another possibility could be a bad ignition switch, just because the engine cranks doesn’t mean the switch is also supplying power to the rest of the car. If you rule those two sources out from being faulty then you may need to have your EWS realigned or try giving Turnermotorsports.com a call to see if they can help you with a new program. The 96 and up cars don’t have the same computer as the one in my video. 95 and earlier OBD-1 (on board diagnostics 1) cars have a removable chip where 96 and up OBD-II cars do not. In your case you or a tuner would upload a program though the diagnostic port to disable the EWS. The other way around it would be to purchase or swap a complete EWS system from another car of your year and make (these can be found on Ebay as complete units) You would need a matching EWS module, key, DME also known as the computer. If you go this route on your own to a wrecking yard make sure all components are from a single car as you cannot mismatch these parts; they are vin specific. I hope this helps

  34. i have a 2003 320i and the immobilizer does not lock or unlock the car, i checked the fuses and they are ok, what could be the problem?

    • Lebo, two pssibilites could be your Key Fob battery or central locking system module. Though not very inconclusive you could do a check on the central locking system module by trying to lock the car with the remote while you are sitting inside with all doors closed (do not manually lock the doors during this test) What you are trying to do is see wheather or not the car will start. If the Key Fob is working and sending a signal even though the doors do not lock it still may be able to activate the anti-theft protection that will either lockout the starter or kill power to the fuel injectors & coil which will not allow the car to start. To wrap it up if your doors do not lock with the key fob and your engine won’t start then your key fob and battery are good but you have a faulty central locking system module. If your car does start then most likely you have a dead battery in your key which isn’t able to communicate with the central locking system. This test may or may not work for you, if inconclusive have a shop test the key for you. Thanks

  35. hi there, i have just completed a 328i into a 328i sport engine transplant both 1996.. i am using the sport DME and key etc only the engine has changed should this work with no changes surley the engine doesnt identify itself only the AWS, key and DME? at the moment it turns over but as soon as we remove a plug to check the spark it then wont turn over.

    • No, there should not be a problem with that swap as you have all matching componets for the EWS to work. If you are checking spark with a spark plug installed into the boot you want to make sure that the spark plug is touching a good engine ground (no painted surface: valve cover stud/cylinder head) at all times while the engine is cranking; otherwise you could hurt the coil. If checking spark with a metal object installed into the boot you want to make sure you are close enough to engine so that the spark can jump the gap.

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